Pine Orchard from Girards' Sugarbush

I'm dedicating this post to my Dad. He turned 82 yesterday. Thanks Dad for instilling my love of the Adirondacks and of hiking. Even though you'll have trouble believing this, given all the trouble you had "getting me off my duff" when I was a kid. I just want you to know that I was saving my energy for these crazy hikes. Thanks for everything. I owe it all to you.


Three separate marked trails reach the Pine Orchard east of Wells. The route from the north starts on Route 8 and leads initially to the site of a long abandoned maple sugaring operation. This is known as the Girards Sugarbush trail (Note: There are two possible starting points for this route; I'm describing the shorter one. See the notes at the end for details on the shortcut).

Route to the Pine Orchard starting at the Girards' Sugarbush trailhead on Rte 8, northeast of Wells. 

This northern route to the Pine Orchard follows an abandoned woods road through the heart of the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest. The route has its' own unique appeal but it's a tough walk. The entire 5.5 mile route is marked as a snowmobile trail and for much of the way it is wet and rough. Not surprising really; in the Adirondacks snowmobile trails tend to be wetter, rockier and more in-grown than well-used hiking trails. On the plus side snowmobile trails generally have good bridges and the two major brooks you encounter along this route are crossed by solid bridges. Adding to the fun is that whomever originally picked this route somehow managed to cover the entire distance without crossing any level ground. My GPS recorded the total elevation gain for the round trip as over 3000 feet. And trust me; that's an underestimate. This is a tough route.

In mid-march I wrote that Spring had arrived in the southern Adirondacks. In mid April, following a stretch of unusually cold weather it's fair to say that Winter has made a last stand.  On April 12th, ponds and swamps were frozen over and a dusting of snow remained in shaded areas. Spring is coming, but not quite yet.

So why walk this trail? For starters, the Pine Orchard never fails to impress. If not for the existence of the easy route to the orchard from Flatters road this trail would see a lot more traffic. But that route does exist; so why walk this trail? The main appeal is that this is wild county with forests that are rapidly approaching what we imprecisely refer to as 'old growth'. Some of the best stands of old growth forest in the Adirondacks are located in the the southern third of the Park and the forests you pass through along this route are representative of that.

Barbara McMartin offers an explanation for why these forests exist in her The Great Forest Of the Adirondacks. And it starts with the timing. The first settlers and loggers who headed north in the decades following the revolutionary war were naturally drawn to the more accessible areas in what is now the southern portion of the Adirondack Park. Some land was logged or cleared for farming during that first wave of settlement but the rough terrain limited the extent. On top of that, areas logged before 1850 have now had over 150 years for the second growth to reach full size and for the forests to assume characteristics that we associate with old growth. There is no definitive point at which a forest becomes "old growth" but, in the southern Adirondacks, areas mostly undisturbed for more than 150 years exhibit many old-growth characteristics. There are additional successional steps between 'old growth' and a climax forest, but forests left to their own devices for 150 to 200 years are getting there.

The second reason that old growth is found in the southeast is that the industrial loggers of the 19th century were primarily interested in softwoods; spruce and pine for pulp and lumber and hemlock for the tanning industry. Much of the southern portion of the great Adirondack forest was dominated by hardwoods: Maple, Beech, Ash and Yellow Birch with a half dozen other species mixed in.There were softwoods in the southern Adirondacks but those stands tended to be smaller and more scattered. McMartin states that while selective logging for softwoods did take place in the south the hardwoods were commonly skipped over. This helps to accounts for the mature hardwoods seen all along the route described here.

This route lies entirely in the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest. Wild Forest is a land use designation that permits some uses not allowed in Wilderness areas including limited motorized access. Still, coming upon the fireplace and outhouse pictured above was surprising and amusing. The fireplace is of the style commonly seen at DEC campgrounds, so maybe there was some easier access to this spot in the past. As it stands today these "facilities" sit idly in the middle of nowhere. 

Forest scene just north of the Pine Orchard.

McMartin's hypothesis that some of the best old stands of Adirondack forest are in the south is borne out by what we see today. Mature hardwoods are seen all along this route and there is a stand just north of the Pine Orchard where the canopy trees are mostly Maples with diameters greater than 30 inches with some even larger trees mixed in. This is what an old growth hardwood forest looks like.

Notes:
There is a marked trailhead for Girards' Sugarbush on NY Route 8 two miles north of the intersection of Routes 8 and 30 (on trail signs this is referred to as 'Griffens'. From this spot the trail passes over rough terrains for over a mile to the point where it intersects the route I've described less than 100 yards from Rte. 8. To bypass this section, pass the formal trailhead (assuming you are approaching from Wells), and drive an additional 1.5 miles (approximately) and watch for an overgrown woods road on the right. It can be hard to spot but there is a sign announcing Sacandaga River Access Parking at the point where the trail enters the woods. If you reach that parking area (also on the right) you have gone to far. There is plenty of parking alongside the road right at the trailhead or you can pull into the parking area and walk back the .2 miles to the start of the trail. There is a trail register 100 yards in so you'll know for sure that you are the right spot.

Whitehouse to Canary Pond; Quiet and Remote

The last time I stood on the suspension bridge that carries the Northville Lake-Placid Trail over the West Branch of the Sacandaga at Whitehouse I was around 10 years old. That was close to 50 years ago.

Image 1: Bridge over the Sacandaga West Branch. The bridge crosses over a rock outcrop in the center of the river (now covered with trees). The total length of the two spans is close to 300 feet. 

That visit took place during a family camping trip to the State Campground on the Sacandaga River just south of Wells. My family was one of a half dozen families who regularly camped together at various campgrounds around the State. My childhood was punctuated by those trips. If I remember correctly, on this particular outing, a couple of the Dads decided to take a bunch of the kids on a hike. The bridge at Whitehouse was new at that time and a 300 foot long suspension bridge over a major river was well worth a look; especially since several of the Dads worked for what was then called the New York State Conservation Department. I don't actually remember the bridge but I know we stood on it because there's a family photo to prove it. What I do recall is that we hiked to a place where a USGS benchmark was set into a boulder alongside the trail. There is a benchmark noted on current maps about a mile north of the bridge on the NLPT so we probably went that way.

On my more recent visit (September, 2015) I did cross the bridge. I was headed for Canary Pond and I thought I might try to go the extra couple of miles to reach Silver Lake from the north. But I turned back at Canary Pond and the nearly 14 mile round trip was plenty of hiking for one day. It took me nine hours to walk that route and a big reason for that was that it was an absolutely gorgeous early fall day with the leaves just starting to turn. I took lots of picture and that takes time.

Image 2: West Branch Sacandaga looking south from the bridge at Whitehouse. 

The human history of the area is described in fascinating detail by Bill Ingersoll in Discover the Southern Adirondacks. As Ingersoll notes, the first settlers to the area arrived in the 1850s and over the roughly 100 year period between settlement and acquisition by the State the land served many uses. The first settlers may have attempted to farm the land but the long winters and thin soil would have discouraged that idea, and from 1900 onward a succession of hotels, hunting lodges and finally a boys summer camp occupied the site. The surrounding wilderness has been owned by the state going back to the late 19th century and the 350 acres where the bridge is now located were acquired in 1962.

The hike south to Canary Pond passes through a rapidly maturing 2nd growth hardwood forest. The Silver Lake Wilderness lies in what was once part of the great northern hardwood forests that covered most of New York State. Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, and American Beech were the dominant tree species and, today, stands of Birch and Maples are rapidly approaching maturity. The Beech are mostly gone; killed off by Beech Bark Disease. This route passes through forests where many trees are approaching 36 inches in diameter with a few larger ones mixed in. There are also stands of Hemlock and I measured one Hemlock on the slope leading up to Mud Pond Notch at 47 inches in diameter.

One of the more interesting sights along the way to Canary Pond was the beaver dam on a small stream between Mud Pond and Canary Pond. This dam is (or was) an engineering marvel. On the day I hiked the route (Sept. 27, 2015), it was very dry; northern New York State had received below average moisture for the year and August and September were notably dry. The beaver had managed to completely block the stream and the outflow below the dam amounted to barely a trickle. As seen in images 3 through 6, the beaver pond was quite large -over 6 acres as measured in Google Earth- and water was backed up to the very top of the dam. Unfortunately for the beaver shortly after my visit the area would receive between three and four inches of rain in a 24 hour period. I have to wonder if the dam stood up to that deluge.

Image 3: Beaver Dam along the trail between Mud Pond and Canary Pond

Image 4: The pond the beaver build.

Image 5: Looking up at the dam from the stream bed. The water in the foreground was standing water in the stream bed. Almost no water was getting through the dam.

Image 6: Looking back across the pond from the far side. The dam,, and the vantage point for the three pictures, is in the farthest distant corner of this shot. On the far shore left of the beaver house. 

I'd be interested to know if the the dam stood up to the heavy rain but I'm sure the beaver will manage, they have been damming this stream for centuries if not longer. Using our ability to view historical imagery in Google Earth we can see that over just the past 15 years the pond pictured above has filled and drained several times. The sequence of images that follows comes from Google Earth showing imagery from 2013, 2011, 2009, and 2006. From this we see that the current large pond was created since the date of the most recent satellite imagery for this area dated from August 2013.

The yellow lines in image seven are the tracks capture by my GPS. There are two lines because one is the track on the way to Canary Pond and the other is the track from my return trip. As you can see, the lines don't overlap, and the difference averages around 30 feet. I keep promising to write more about GPS accuracy, and explain why the tracks differ by that amount, so maybe I'll get around to that soon.

Image 7: The beaver pond/meadow as seen in Google Earth imagery from August 2013.

Image 8: The beaver pond/meadow as seen in Google Earth Imagery from May 2011. You might also wonder why this image is "fuzzy" when compared with the one from 2013. The most recent round of imagery used in Google Earth (as seen in image 7) is at a higher resolution than was previously available.

Image 9: The beaver pond as seen in imagery from May 2009. The beaver had dammed the stream and filled the pond.

Image 10: The beaver pond/meadow as seen in Google Earth Imagery from June 2006. The dam was out and the pond was a grass-filled meadow.

I did eventually make it to Canary Pond, a lovely and remote body of water (Image 11). Along the way you pass Mud Pond, site of a lean-to that is in particularly good shape. Ingersoll says that the appreciation of Mud Pond requires a special aesthetic (images 12 and 13) and for tired through hikers on the NLPT the difficulty of getting to the pond to get water probably does lead to a bit of cursing. But I thought it was pretty enough and marshes look to me like an exceptionally good place for bird watching. By the way, the stream that Ingersoll mentions as a source of water for campers staying at the leanto, was completely dry on the day I was there.

Image 11: Canary Pond

Image 12: Mud Pond

Image 13: The path over the outlet of Mud Pond. A split log bridge passes through and should keep feet dry most of the time.

Image 14: Fall foliage along the Sacandaga West Branch.