Snowy Mountain

Snowy Mountain has a reputation as the high peak that got away. Snowy is the tallest mountain outside of the high peaks and, at 3904 feet, it is the 46th highest mountain in the Adirondacks (two of the original 4000 footers; Nye and Couchsachraga were found to be less than 4000 feet by later more-accurate surveys). But even more important to Snowy's reputation is its' striking and rugged profile. The east side of the narrow summit ridge is framed by large areas of open rock and to the west the ridge falls away steeply to the Squaw Brook Valley, 1500 feet below.

The Snowy Mountain summit ridge from Google Earth. The orange line is my GPS track. 

Snowy is also known for having great views and I found the western vista to be the most striking. Snowy is the high point in a range with a half dozen summits exceeding 3700 feet in elevation and, except for Snowy itself, these peaks are un-tracked and rarely visited. The western view from Snowy looks out over a sea of wilderness.

Northwest from the summit of Snowy Mountain. Panther Mountain -elevation 3865 feet- (far right in the photo) is the high point of the range that frames the west side of the Squaw Brook Valley. The valley floor is 1500 feet below the ledge where this photo was taken. 

Looking southwest from Snowy Mountain. Lewey Mountain (elevation, 3720 feet) is the prominent cone in the center. The rarely visited Blue Ridge (elev. 3881 feet) is visible in the distance.

Buell Mountain (elevation 3740) is directly across the valley from Snowy.

Looking northeast towards the High Peaks. This view was from midway up the tower. There are open ground-level views to the east and west, but you'll need to climb the tower to get a 360 degree view.

Looking over Indian Lake from the site of the (removed) observer's cabin.

The Snowy Mountain trail is reminiscent of the high peaks experience in other ways. Lots of people climb this mountain; and the boots of many hikers, combined with the steepness of the upper sections, has resulted in a muddy and heavily eroded trail. Recent trail work has greatly improved the first two and a half miles making it a pleasant walk through an, attractive, middle-aged forest. At that point you'll have a mile --and 1500 feet of elevation-- remaining. The trail climbs steadily at first and the last half mile is very steep; following the course of an old, overgrown, slide. This section is rough, muddy and eroded but not particularly difficult. The trail breaks out onto a large ledge at the former site of the observers cabin and then continues a short distance to the fire tower. The tower is in good shape, and can be climbed to the top for 360 degree vistas. A small ledge on the west side provide open views in that direction.

Squaw Peak looms over the trail on the steep upper section of the route. In places the trail is heavily eroded, but a lot of work has been done to improve the experience and reduce the damage done by thousands of hikers.

Little Tupper Lake and Owls Head; Long Lake Favorites

Part One: Little Tupper Lake

Our recent (partial) move to Long Lake makes it a lot easier to head out for a few hours and on the last two weekends I've done just that; kayaking on Little Tupper Lake for one outing and hiking Owls Head mountain on a separate day.

Little Tupper is the center piece of the William C. Whitney/Round Lake Wilderness area and the put-in is just a 20 minute drive from Long Lake Village. If canoeing or kayaking on wilderness lakes is your thing; it's hard to beat Little Tupper Lake.

Little Tupper is six miles long and averages about 3/4s of a mile across. It's a big lake, and its' alignment with the prevailing westerly winds means that it can get rough when the wind blows. As the signs at the wilderness headquarters note; if the wind starts to blow, or a thunderstorm approaches, head for the shore. 

The day I was there was pretty calm and what wind there was came out of the south. This made it a good day to tool around in my little 'sport' kayak; not a boat you'd want to be out in on a day when the lake was roughed up. From the landing I paddled across the lake and then followed the south shore towards the lake's major inlet, Rock Pond Stream. As the crow flies it's about five miles from the headquarters to the head of the lake and, with some time added in for exploring, it took nearly two and half hours of steady paddling to get there. I had thoughts about continuing into Rock Pond Stream and possibly all the way to Rock Pond. But I didn't go far before the Black Flies and Mosquitoes convinced me that this was not a good plan. Besides, calm, sunny, morning had given way to increasing clouds and a freshening breeze. So it was time to head back. Working my way back along the northwestern (opposite) shore made for a round trip covering about 11 miles. A good workout in a 10 foot kayak designed for doodling around on small lakes and ponds.

Little Tupper hosts a solid loon population. This pair popped up close to my kayak and I was able to get off a couple of quick shots before they disappeared again. 

Looking down the lake (to the northeast) towards the Ranger Station

Near the head of the lake, looking southwest. The inlet coming in from Rock Pond is maybe a mile further along the shore.

The stream from Rock Pond is easily navigable by canoe or kayak, with one short portage. Rock Pond itself is a large body of water and well worth a visit. But not on this early June day. Out on the lake the breeze was enough to keep the bugs away but close to shore the breeze dropped and bugs literally swarmed in. Run away!

Part Two: Owls Head Mountain

Owls Head mountain, with it prominent fire tower, is visible throughout the village of Long Lake. And the climb is a favorite of both visitors and residents. At just over three miles, with 1100 feet of elevation gain, this hike provides a sense of accomplishment without requiring a whole day.

And the views are well worth the effort. There are good views to the east, northeast and southeast from the rocks below the tower and a local volunteer group is maintaining the tower so you can climb up and get a nearly 360 degree vista. I don't know when (or if) the cab at the top of the tower is opened, but the highest landing provides clear views in all directions.

Blue Mountain, looking southeast from Owls Head. The south end of Long Lake in the foreground. South Pond is a bit further out towards Blue Mt.

Looking Northeast over Long Lake, the High Peaks in the distance. 

Looking south from the tower it's an unbroken forest as far as you can see. You have to climb at least part way up the tower to enjoy this view. 

The Owls Head tower is being maintained by a local volunteer group. Climbing up to the landing below the cab opens up views to the south and west that cannot be had from the ground.

Looking mostly south. Snowy Mountain is the dominant peak in the distant ridge.

No. 8 Hill, Pharaoh Lake Wilderness

Late January, sun shining, moderate temperatures; a perfect day for a hike in the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness. My plan was to follow the Sucker Brook Trail for four miles and then go off-trail for half a mile to the top of No. 8 Mountain. And I did reach to the top of a mountain. It's just that it was not "No. 8 Mountain". Its' name is actually No. 8 Hill; a distinction of no interest, except, there actually is a separate mountain, named No. 8 Mountain, located just two miles away. That's a bit confusing.

Pharaoh Mountain, seen from No. 8 Hill. This view of the imposing western face of Pharaoh Mountain is as good as it gets.

If you've seen the movie The Englishman Who Went Up a Hill but Came Down a Mountain you might imagine that the distinction between No. 8 Mountain and No. 8 Hill is based on some physical  characteristic that separates the mountains from the hills. In the movie, the inhabitants of an isolated Welsh town are told that their "mountain" is only a hill. They got the downgrade because their mountain was just shy of the 1000 foot minimum used by the UK Ordinance Survey as the defining characteristic of a mountain. Apparently, British geographers of that period had a lot of time on their hands. In the U.S. the Board of Geographic Names steered clear of such arbitrary distinctions. In any case, with an elevation of 1945 feet No. 8 Mountain doesn't meet a standard that might separate it from its' slightly lower neighbor. The summit elevation of No. 8 hill is just 100 feet lower at 1850 feet.

The USGS 1953 Paradox Lake Quadrangle map (1:62500) shows both peaks. This is the first edition where the name No 8 Hill appears. The Sucker Brook trail passes just north of No. 8 Hill but is not shown on this map.

Barbara McMartin mentions No. 8 Mountain in her book Discover the Eastern Adirondacks. She describes an approach from the south as an easy off-trail climb, with ledges offering good views to the south. From where I left the trail the climb of No. 8 Hill is steepish, you gain 650 feet of elevation in less than half a mile. Nearing the top I was a bit surprised to find it to be a rocky knob protected by a band of cliffs and jumbled piles of large boulders. Contouring around the summit knob looking for a way up I made one false start; steep icy slabs blocked the way so I retreated to seek a less exciting route.

Looking northwest from the summit of No. 8 Hill. The Dix Range of High Peaks region is visible in the distance. 3700 foot Hoffman Mountain is seen on the left side of the photo.

Eventually I found a manageable way up. But, while taking the last few steps to the top it struck me that it had been a bit more challenging than I had expected. And the view that unfolded in front of me was also a surprise. McMartin described No. 8 Mountain as having good views to the south, towards Brant Lake. But the mountain I was on offered spectacular vistas with an unobstructed 180 degree view to the north, east and west. 

Looking towards the southwest. Crane Mountain is visible in the distance.

It still had not sunk in that my recollection, and reality, were out of sync. So when it was time to descend I walked around the surprisingly large summit looking for an easy way down. Descending the south facing slope was promising at first, but the way was soon blocked by small cliffs. Going back up, I then headed down the western flank of the mountain. This route was also relatively gentle at first but, after a few minutes of descending, I found myself on an extremely steep and icy slope. Steep enough that I considered going back up to the top one more time so I could descend the route I followed on the way up (better the devil you know). But, by this point the afternoon was showing signs of wear, so I forged on, moving very deliberately. Within a few minutes I was back on easier terrain. The final difficulty coming in the crossing of a steep-sided little ravine filled with snow that had sloughed off the rock slabs above. 

Looking towards the southeast. Glimpses of Lake Champlain are seen in the foreground with the Green Mountains in the distance. 

This is a great little mountain (hill), and, on a warm summer day, the scramble over the steep upper slopes will seem far less daunting. Hiking solo, off-trail, in the winter, on the wrong mountain, you have to be cautious. The starting point for the Sucker Brook trail is five minute drive from the Hamlet of Adirondack on the eastern shore of Schroon lake.There is a large parking area.

The GPS track for the route described in this blog post. 

Solitude in the High Peaks - Pinnacle Peak

I generally avoid the Eastern High Peaks. Many areas lack the solitude and wildness that I find appealing. But you can't beat a great view and I've long been intrigued by a small peak south of Mt. Marcy named the Pinnacle. The Pinnacle sits at the western end of the range that includes Nippletop, Colvin and Blake. At just 3400 feet Pinnacle avoids the 46er curse, and there's no easy way to get there, so even on a gorgeous late summer day crowds seemed unlikely.

View from near the top of the Pinnacle. The Great Range (L. to R.): Mt. Marcy, Haystack, Basin, Saddleback, Gothics. Ausable Lakes in the foreground.

The route follows the Panther Gorge Trail from the Dix Mountain Trail head at Elk Lake. The Panther Gorge trail starts across the road from the parking area (the Dix Trail goes off separately) and provides a southern approach to the highest peaks. Using this trail it's ten miles to the summit of Marcy and this is probably the least used approach to the Great Range. After five miles on the Panther Gorge trail you reach the junction with the Pinnacle Trail and it's an additional 1.8 miles to the top from there. The Pinnacle trail is rough, but relatively level, until after a mile you reach a junction with a private trail coming up from the Adirondack Mountain Reserve. That's where the climb begins. From there you'll gain 1300 feet of elevation in the remaining eight tenths of a mile to the top.

This route does not get a lot of use. I walked it on a perfect late August day and met two people on the trail for the entire day. However, I did see plenty of other hikers. I got a late start and by the time I got to Elk Lake the Dix trail head parking was full (no parking is allowed along the road). This meant that I (and many many others) had to park two miles back along the road at Clear Pond. The extra two miles on both ends of the hike meant that my planned 14 mile hike was going to be an 18 miler. The two extra miles went by quickly in the morning but, at the end of the day, walking slowly back along the road with darkness falling, I was afraid to stop. Not afraid of the dark, but afraid that if I sat down I might not be able to get started again. I got back the car at 8:00 pm after 10 hours of continuous hiking. In addition to the distance, the trail crosses the Colvin Range ridge (in both directions) so total elevation grain for the day was 4300 feet. All in all, one of toughest hikes I've done in recent years.

The lay of the land (screen capture from Google Earth). 

One of the highlights of the day was catching glimpses of what I believe were several (two, possibly more) Bicknell's Thrushes near the summit of Pinnacle (3400 feet). This secretive bird breeds at high elevations in the northeastern U.S. and Canada and, with a very limited breeding range, it is rather rare. Bicknell's is not easily identified in the field but these birds were definitely thrushes and, given the location, Bicknell's Thrush is the likely ID.

Viewed on a map, or in Google Earth, the Pinnacle is a non-descript bump on a ridge surrounded by much bigger mountains. But, as for views, this is a giant. There are fantastic views of the Great Range and crossing the summit there are views of the Dix Range and Elk Lake. The pictures tell the story.

Elk Lake. Looking southeast from the Pinnacle.

The ADK Guidebook says that the trail climbs steeply at times. This nearly vertical ladder near the top qualifies as "climbing steeply".

Mount Marcy (left) and Haystack. The rocky knob of Little Haystack is seen on the far right.

Mt. Macomb. The other Dix range peaks are visible though the trees from the summit of Pinnacle.

Looking south towards Hoffman Mountain and the peaks of the Blue Ridge Range.

Another shot of Marcy and Haystack. With the Upper Ausable Lake just visible in the foreground.

The Pinnacle trail (1.8 miles from the Panther Gorge Trail to the top) passes though a magnificent hardwood forest. Ancient Yellow Birch with diameters approaching 4 feet are seen along with old growth Maple. The Spruce near the summit appear to be untouched by loggers or fire with numerous large trees present. 

No Adirondack hike is complete without encountering an odd fungus along the trail. Despite the distinctive color, and an unusual foul odor, I've not been able to identify this particular variety. 

Northville Lake Placid Trail - One High Ridge

The Northville Lake Placid Trail (NLPT) is not a route for peak baggers. Unlike many other long distance hiking routes, the NLPT does not follow the spine of a mountain range. Instead, the NLPT crosses the adirondack dome via natural corridors provided by the many rivers and streams that define the landscape. Nearly the entire route stays below 2500 feet, with one prominent exception. The section south of Route 28N (east of Long Lake) crosses a steep ridge line at just over 3000 feet.

Walking south on the NLPT from the parking area on 28N, it's 3.5 miles to the ridgeline with 1300 feet of climbing. You ascend gradually for the first three miles and a good chunk of the elevation is gained in the last half mile. The trail then follows the ridgeline for half a mile before dropping off steeply to begin the descent towards Tirrell Pond and points south. I've hiked in this area many times but it's been years since I walked along the ridgeline in mid-summer. What a shame. The half-mile along the crest of the ridge is an uncommon delight.

Spruce, Fir and other common sub-alpine species mix-in, but the canopy along the ridgeline is dominated by Yellow Birch. 

Three thousand feet is not high, even by modest Adirondack standards, but the forest community present on this ridge is uncommonly attractive. Above 2800 feet, on the northern side, the forest canopy is dominated by mature Yellow Birch with an understory consisting primarily of fern-filled meadows. This is not a named ecological assemblage (NYS Natural Heritage Project) and this elevation is considered to be the upper limit for Yellow Birch.

I spent two hours exploring the ridge line and simply sitting, relaxing, and enjoying the solitude.  

Ecological communities are highly variable. There are the defining characteristics of a locale: climate, soil, moisture levels, elevation, slope, and so on, but these characteristics simply provide a baseline. The forests we see today have been shaped by disturbances: disease, fires, storms, droughts and logging. I suspect that the forest present on the ridgeline southeast of Long Lake emerged from an event that took place on November 25, 1950. If you know anything of recent Adirondack history that date should ring a bell. That's the date of the great Adirondack hurricane. What locals refer to simply as the 'blowdown'.

We tend to think of hurricanes as tropical storms but the storm that blew through the Adirondacks on that November day exhibited the same characteristics; heavy rain and intense cyclonic winds formed around a compact low pressure area. With recorded wind speeds of up to 100 miles per hour, this storm would been memorable under any circumstances, but the effects were greatly magnified by the wind direction. Any large tree growing in the Adirondacks has stood fast against many storms and, over time, the trees brace themselves against the prevailing northwesterly winds. The 1950 storm battered the forests from the south and, worst of all, the northeast. Those northeasterly winds hit trees growing on north facing slopes particularly hard and in some places 50 to 75% of the mature trees came down.

Yellow Birch dominate the canopy and ferns fill the understory.

White Pine and Spruce tended to be most vulnerable and on the other end of the spectrum Yellow Birch tends to hold up well against high winds. If you're unfamiliar with Yellow Birch you might be wondering how birch trees could be so tough. The White and Grey Birch so common in suburban yards are the first trees to come down in a storm. Well, we can't pick our relatives, and Yellow Birch is an entirely different sort of tree. Yellow Birch is long-lived and specimens of Yellow Birch are among the oldest and largest trees present in Adirondack forests today. The ridge line southeast of Long Lake was hard hit by the 1950 storm and the mature Yellow Birch present there today prospered in the aftermath of that storm.

The Adirondack forest is damp and mossy. A few degrees warmer, and with a few more inches of rain annually, and the Adirondacks would be a temperate rain forest. Maybe that's what it will become in the future.

If the ridge line is out of reach the first mile of this trail passes through a large Spruce bog of uncommon diversity and beauty. I've walked the boardwalks of this section dozens of times but I enjoy it every single time. The picture is of water flowing in Shaw Brook. Roughly a half mile from the trail head.  

Ghost plant (Indian Pipe) is a heteromycotroph. These plants lack chlorophyll and derive energy from fungus in the soil.

Roosevelt Truck Trail, A Hidden Gem

The Roosevelt Truck Trail (RTT) is a hidden gem. That's what I told Elle as we drove out of Long Lake headed towards Newcomb. I was confident that the 'hidden' half of that statement was true. As for the 'gem' part, we would soon find out.

I use that route when driving from Long Lake to our home in Saratoga Springs and I've wondered about a narrow paved road that disappears into the forest on the north side of Route 28N, five miles east of Newcomb. The road is easy to miss, but the railroad track that once connected the mines at Tahawus with North Creek provides a good reference point. The road enters the forest a quarter mile east of the tracks. The road looks like it could be a driveway, but there is little sign of use and no electricity or phone lines reach out this far. Recently, I read about a unique trail that leaves 28N somewhere in that vicinity. Putting two and two together, this intriguing little road had to be the Roosevelt Truck Trail.

Good parking is found at the southern end of the RTT. The trail runs for 2.5 miles from Rte. 28N to the Blue Ridge Road. 

For much of the way the route follows a well maintained woods road. The northern end, however, is blocked by blowdown and is heavily grown in.

Ironically, there actually is a house on the access road. A short distance in a gravel driveway leads off of the paved road but, continuing on, you soon reach a small parking area with signs indicating that you are on forest preserve land. A wide woods road with a heavy gate leads north out of the parking area. This is the truck trail.

The RTT runs for two and half miles between Rte. 28n and the Blue Ridge Road. From the south, the first half of the route is well maintained and about a mile in you reach two well manicured camp sites. These sites are designated as handicap accessible. With a permit, and the combination for the locked gate, a four wheel drive vehicle could be driven to these sites. Located in a stand of mature white pines this would be a very nice place to camp. You'd need to bring water however, there does not appear to a nearby source.

Done as an out and back hike the entire route covers five miles over gently rolling hills. The only complication comes at the northern end. There is considerable blowdown north of Vanderwacker Brook and the road is more grown in.

The RTT is popular with bird watchers and it was a write up describing a guided hike taken by a bird watching group that led us there. We saw plenty of birds but nothing uncommon. However, as the day warmed, we saw plenty of the most common forms of flying Adirondack wildlife. It being July the mosquitoes and deer flies kept us moving along at a brisk pace the entire way.

The route is noted for its' passage through boreal forests and that is part of its' appeal. A snowshoe hare in brown summer time garb crossed the path in front of us and it's easy to imagine Bobcats stalking prey in these woods. But, as is the case for many parts of the Adirondacks, past human activity has directly shaped what we see today. The southern end of the trail passes through homogeneous stands of non-native Norway Spruce. This forest was planted with the fast growing European spruce to replace the harvested native trees. Judging by the size this was probably done in the 1920s or 1930s.

Is the RTT a gem? Sure, it's a quiet walk through maturing forests with great bird and wildlife watching opportunities. Like many Adirondack trails it would probably be best walked in the fall, but those who appreciate solitude it's worth a visit at any time of year.

Late July along the RTT. The trail is mostly open and easy to walk. The half mile south of the Blue Ridge Road is grown in.  

Light passing through the web creates a moire pattern.

Early morning light. We got out early on an unusually cool morning in late July (48 degrees in Long Lake). This was to reduce our encounters with the air wing of the Adirondack Protection Force.

It was a cool morning but Elle was bundled up against the bugs, not the cold. By Adirondack standards they actually weren't bad. The northern part of the route is grown in with lots of blueberries. Also lots of poison ivy so watch out for that. 

Two camp sites with good access and new, accessible, privies are available for back country camping with a degree of handicapped access.