Monday, September 4, 2017

Old Growth; Lower Sargent Pond to Raquette Lake

Labor Day weekend. The weather forecast called for a high of 65 degrees, low humidity and clear skies. Setting out to hike to Tioga Point on Raquette Lake, Elle and I had high hopes. We were not disappointed. This is an uncommonly pleasant route walked on day that can only be described as 'perfect for hiking'.

The route begins on North Point Road, southwest of Long Lake. From the road it's two miles to Lower Sargent Pond and four additional miles to Tioga Point. We actually turned back just short of the campground at Tioga Point but it didn't matter. This hike is all about the journey, not the destination.

We had our lunch on the shore of Eldon Lake which I thought was Raquette Lake. And it's a mostly arbitrary distinction. Eldon Lake is a mile long bay separated from the main body of the big lake by a sandbar and shallow water. Whether it's a bay, or a separate lake, depends on the water level.

Overview of the route. A campground (boat access only) is located on Tioga Point. Eldon Lake, and the sandbar that separates it from Raquette Lake, is visibly just below the line representing our route. The old growth stands discussed in this post are about half way between Lower Sargent Pond and Eldon Lake.
1909 USGS topographic map. Eldon Lake is named on the map despite the direct connection with Raquette Lake.

Grass Pond seen on the way to Lower Sargent. Shallow and non-descript, Grass Pond will be most interesting to birders. We spotted two Gray Jays and a large owl (most likely a Barred Owl)  

The trail to Lower Sargent Pond gets plenty of use but from Sargent Pond to Eldon Lake the trail has a wilderness feel. The route is marked as a snowmobile trail but there is a good foot path the entire way with just a couple wet areas that might be problematic when it's really wet.

Trail side on the walk to Lower Sargent Pond.
The route passes several attractive bodies of water but the main appeal is the forest itself. From the road to Lower Sargent Pond you walk through a maturing hardwood forest with large Yellow Birch dominating the canopy. That usually means that at some point in the past the area was lightly cut with only the softwoods being taken (Pine, Spruce and Fir were the first choice of early Adirondack loggers). Even so, given the overall maturity of the forest, this tract must have been added to the forest preserve early on.

The trail crosses the brook that drains the Sargent Ponds into Raquette Lake just before you reach the short spur trail to Lower Sargent. The outlet of Lower Sargent Pond joins this stream just beyond this point, and a fish dam blocks access for fish making their way upstream from Raquette Lake.
Lower Sargent Pond. The Sargent Ponds are known for good fishing and good swimming. You can reach the ponds from several different access points and there are two trailheads on North Point Road. One leads to Lower Sargent Pond and the other goes more directly to Upper Sargent. A loop hike with a 1.5 mile road walk between the trailheads is possible. We did that loop a couple years ago and that hike is described here.
The fish barrier dam at Lower Sargent Pond prevents undesirable fist species present in Raquette Lake from entering the pond. Lower Sargent Pond hosts a good trout fishery.
The walk to Lower Sargent makes for a great short hike, but it's the forest between Lower Sargent and Eldon Lake that is so spectacular. Leaving Lower Sargent the forest composition initially remains much the same; mature, second growth hardwoods. But after a mile or so the forest composition changes dramatically. The first thing I noticed was the presence of large Maples. I had not been seeing any of those. And then the old growth White Pine and Spruce appeared. 

The trekking pole I'm holding was set at 135 centimeters or 53 inches. Standard practice is to measure tree diameter 4 feet above the ground. I was holding the pole higher than that to make it more visible. The diameter of this Pine at four feet is about 50 inches.  
For half a mile the trail passes through what appears to be old growth; possibly never cut. There are dozens of White Pine that I place in the "wow, that's a really big tree" category. An informal measurement of one Pine near the trail found the diameter to be 50 inches (AVB) and numerous equally large specimens can be seen. Large hardwoods: Yellow Birch, Maple and Ash are mixed in and 18 inch diameter Red Spruce are also seen. That's big for the slow-growing Red Spruce but I didn't see any of the 24 inch diameter trees you might expect to find in undisturbed old growth. It may be that the large Spruce and Fir were cut from this area at some point or maybe conditions here are not as attractive for the pulpwood species. One thing I can say with certainty. This section of forest is distinctly different than what is commonly seen. You'll know it right away.

When we first saw Eldon Lake I thought it was Raquette Lake. Some maps show this water as an arm of Raguette and some show it as a separate water body.